Cozido das Furnas: Volcanic Stew in São Miguel
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Short answer
Cozido das Furnas is a traditional Portuguese stew cooked underground in volcanic vents in Furnas, São Miguel. It's made with meats and vegetables, slow-cooked for hours by geothermal heat. You can eat it at many restaurants in Furnas, typically for lunch, and it's a must-try local specialty.
What is Cozido das Furnas?
Cozido das Furnas is a hearty stew that's a signature dish of Furnas, a village on São Miguel known for its geothermal activity. It typically includes various meats like pork, beef, and chicken, along with vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, and cabbage. The stew is cooked in a pot buried in the ground near the volcanic vents around Lagoa das Furnas. The result is a unique flavor that some travellers report has a slightly sulphury taste due to the geothermal cooking method.
How is it cooked in volcanic ground?
The cooking process is what makes this dish special. Pots filled with the stew ingredients are lowered into holes in the ground near the fumaroles at Lagoa das Furnas. The geothermal heat from the volcanic activity cooks the stew slowly for about 8 hours. This method imparts a distinct earthy flavor. You can see the earth ovens in action on the north side of Lagoa das Furnas, where locals and restaurants prepare the dish. It's a traditional technique that has been used for generations.
Where to eat Cozido das Furnas
Many restaurants in Furnas serve cozido, and some of the more popular ones recommend a reservation to guarantee a spot. Here are some places from our spot list where you can try it:
- O Miroma 1 (regional)
- Restaurante Tony's (regional)
- Vale das Furnas (regional)
- Banhos Ferreos (local)
- Caldeiras e Vulcões (Portuguese; regional)
- Restaurante Fim de Século (Portuguese)
- Terra Nostra Garden Restaurant (Portuguese; regional)
- Summer Breeze (Portuguese; regional)
- Fim de Século (regional)
- Queijaria Furnense (also recommended by travellers for lunch)
Travellers report that Queijaria Furnense is a good spot for lunch before strolling to Terra Nostra Gardens. Most of these restaurants are in the village of Furnas, easily explored on foot.
When to eat it
Cozido is typically served for lunch, as it's a substantial meal. Some restaurants may offer it at dinner, but it's best to go for lunch to ensure availability. Since cooking takes about 8 hours, it's usually ready by early afternoon. It's a good idea to arrive around midday or early afternoon. If you're visiting in high season, consider making a reservation, as popular places can fill up. Travellers report that going early is wise for popular spots.
Tips for trying Cozido das Furnas
If you're driving to Furnas, note that parking near Lagoa das Furnas has a fee at the north lot (€3), while the south lot is free. After your meal, you can walk around the lake and see the geothermal vents and earth ovens. The village itself is walkable, so you can easily explore other attractions like Terra Nostra Park and Poça da Dona Beija. Be aware that the sulphury taste might be unusual for some palates, but it's part of the experience.
Questions people ask
What does cozido das Furnas taste like?
It's a rich, meaty stew with a unique earthy flavor. Travellers report it has a weird, sulphury taste due to the volcanic cooking method, which some love and others find unusual.
How long is cozido cooked?
It's cooked for about 8 hours in the volcanic ground, according to Wikivoyage.
Do I need a reservation for cozido?
Some popular restaurants recommend a reservation to guarantee a spot, especially in high season. It's best to book ahead or go early.
Can I see the cooking process?
Yes, you can see the earth ovens and fumaroles on the north side of Lagoa das Furnas, where locals and restaurants cook the stew.
Is cozido das Furnas expensive?
Prices vary by restaurant, but it's generally a mid-range meal. We don't have exact prices, so it's best to check locally.
Compiled from OpenStreetMap, Wikivoyage and traveller reports. Confirm prices and opening hours locally. About
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